Our last full day in Colmar was supposed to include a visit to the Alsatian wine route. However, we were tired. An agreement was reached to remain in Colmar and visit the myriad of markets that were slated for the day and to see if we could find the illusive wine bar “L’un des Sens” suggested by friends - Steve and Melissa McCall.
First on the market list was the covered market for Petit Dejeuner. Pineapple yogourt fermier, un croissant, et un café crème made the morning. I’ve been drinking cafés more often than tea for some reason I’ve yet to explain to myself. But the coffee is good and much like wine deserves to be savored. The covered market is quite the collection of kiosks with all manner of food and beverage.
|Covered Market Exterior|
|Bretzel Kiosk in the Covered Market - so GOOD!|
Outside the covered market with its established kiosks, was a farmer’s market. Small but well appointed with fine looking vegetables, fruits, cheeses, etc. However, we made no purchases. We wanted to make sure we were in time for the Linen Market.
It was an interesting find the Linen Market. I had supposed that it would hold fine linens and lace work items. Nope. Clothing, purses, leathers, coats, scarves, hats, all sorts of prêt à porter (ready to wear). We bought a couple of scarves and then headed to the Petit Venise as it was nearing lunch and we had crêpes on our mind.
|Betty's Savory Crepes|
After the crêpes we took a stroll along the canal system. As noted in a previous post, this is a charming area, but if you plan to stay here, it’s much more expensive, touristy, and noisy. As we strolled along the canals we found the original walls that surrounded Colmar. Two sets – the oldest dating from the 1200’s had slits in it to accommodate the firepower of the age – bows and arrows. The second wall dated from the 1500’s and by then guns had taken over – different openings for different types of weaponry. Hard to consider that with all its charm, Colmar was ever a military location. But with wealth comes those who want to take it…such it was then, such it is today. I really wonder if we’ll ever learn.
This is a very cool little place and we arrived just as it opened. While they have plats (meals), we chose a couple of entrees and wine because we were planning dinner at another restaurant. One was cheese, the other meats:
Fromage: Loire Chevre – St Maure de Touraine
Pommard Chevre – had mustard seed and came from Burgundy
Champagne Vache – cow’s milk cheese from Langre
Meats: Jambon Cru (dried ham)
Andouie de compagne fume
He asked what we wanted to drink and I said surprise us, and he did! He came back with a blind tasting. Sigh. I blew it on both. Riesling like I’ve never had before and a Pinot Gris (was close on this one, but still missed it), here’s the information:
• 2010 Valentin Zusslin Bollenberg Riesling – biodynamic wine maker, no sulfur used except for a bit just before bottling
• 2008 Domaine Léon Boesch Clos Zwingel Pinot Gris – also biodynamic
Best recent vintages in Alsace – 2008 and 2010.
It was an interesting and enlightening early evening. However, with all the food and wine, we weren’t as hungry as we’d been. So, one of the things we’d wanted to try was a pizza from the area. So off we went to La Krutenau for a tarte flambées. We chose the Tarte Flambées Gratinée (fromage blanc, crème, lardons, oignons, and fromage râpé). It was accompanied by a chilled glass of Pinot Noir – weird, but worked with the “pizza”. The flambée was the thinnest pizza I’ve ever had. It was more like a wafer cracker than pizza dough, covered with cream, ham, onions, and cheese.
Back to the hotel to pack for the morning held the train to Lyon and all the incredible goodies that the food capital of France had to offer…until then…