Van Gogh & Chateau

Thursday the 20th was committed to visiting the Chateau at Tarascon and the walk documenting Vincent Van Gogh's paintings during his residence in St Remy. Tarascon and St Remy are south and west of Avignon and the drive was very active - lots of cars on the road. We stopped in St Remy before the noon lunch hour (actually 2 to 2-1/2 hours for the French) to pickup the map of the Van Gogh walk, then on to Tarascon.

So, Provence...sun, lavender, grapes, cherries and LOTS of wind! The mistrals have been blowing us all over the place and this day I think was the worst. With Tarascon pressed up to the edge of the Rhone river, the winds scream their way down it and land right at the Chateau which sits on a rocky islet beside the Rhone. The winds were so strong they almost blew Helen over! I was leaning hard into the wind myself to keep upright, poor Helen didn't have a chance.

The Chateau was an amazing edifice. Built early on (11th century as I recall) it went through a variety of structural/fortification changes. But the current structure was started in the 1400's by Louis II which was ultimately completed by his sons. A huge place built for protection it's 3-4 stories tall with the roof actually constructed to be used as a terrace as well as a place to defend...apparently Louis liked to party. Louis by the way is pronounced like Louie.

One claims to fame of this chateau are the "privies". The king had the privies built in his and the queen's chambers which to allow the "waste" to drop to the river. The privy holes are still there and believe me you'd better be wide enough not to fall through given that their rooms were on the 3rd & 4th floors! In addition, they would have been a bit breezy we pondered if the mistrals were strong enough, might things been returned and fortunately for the queen her privy was not on the same side as her husband as here rooms were a floor below...ick!

The Chateau during the 18th century became a prison. On the walls in many areas are carvings made by those who found themselves incarcerated in the chateau. Even more interesting was that the carvings are not only in French, but Greek and Spanish. Indicating the wars or skirmishes that were occurring during it’s use.

After we were whisked back to our car with the help of the mistral, we headed back to St. Remy. I've been to St Remy a couple of times but had never visited the sanitarium in which Van Gogh resided. It was a lovely visit. Van Gogh’s room was quite small but the view out the window was lovely and he painted or sketched the scene often. Then we went on to the walk through the various locations where or near where VG painted some of his most memorable works. If you haven’t done the walk, it’s worth the time. While it is a hike from St Remy to the sanitarium, the walk back is easy and punctuated by the easels describing the pics that were painted there or near there. Handily they are in both French and English – yay! Another interesting observation on the walk and that is referenced on the easels is that the areas has changed quite a bit since the 19^th century when Van Gogh painted his works. The fields and field hands are missing and filled now with homes. Sad really, but it’s the same in all areas – city expansion vs agriculture.

Along the walk back we ran into the loveliest little Brittany spaniel. She was in her yard but just as friendly as can be. And since Paul & Helen own a Brittany, we’ve kept a special eye out for sightings of these French bred dogs. And she was a sweetie.

While we were in St Remy we found loads of German students visiting St Remy and we kept trying to avoid them – didn’t work. However, we did stop and have a citron pressé which I’d been wanting. Love those drinks – they bring you a glass with freshly squeezed lemon juice, a bottle of water and sugar from which you devise a lemonade as tart or as sweet as you wish…believe me…it starts out very tart no matter what you do and generally ends up sweeter than you want…but on a warm/hot Provencal day…oh there is nothing better...well, other than a glass of rosé bien sur. We also came upon Nostradamus’ house which we’d tried to find on a previous visit – got a pic confirming we’d found it and it was real. I know this will be a comfort to our friends Suzie & Kim!

When we got back to the car we found an accident being handled by the tallest French woman (policewoman) I’ve ever seen…easily a candidate for the WNBA! As for the accident, in typical French manner, the woman that had hit the parked RV plead her case to the Police woman, who took a look, shrugged her shoulders and everyone took off. Which will leave the poor owner of the RV wondering what might have happened…just cracked us all up, but also we were very glad it wasn’t our car!

Back to Apt to find where the Italian trottoria that we all love but especially Paul. And since he was leaving the next day, he got to choose dinner. Picked up cepes lasagna and some of the best breadsticks I’ve ever eaten.

Dinner

cepes lasasgne

White asparagus

Salad w/coeur de boeuf tomatoes

Bread sticks

Wine

2008 Chateau Husson Cotes-du-Rhone

2007 Domaine Charvin Cotes-du-Rhone

A Simple Meal

Wednesday the 19th (my Sister's birthday - happy b'day again Sis!) was a slower day. We hung out in Apt getting a little wash done (yes, undies). Paul, Helen and Betty headed for a walk around Apt to stretch their legs. I stayed to try to catch up on my travel journal (the handwritten one). While they were gone I hung out the wash to dry, dishes were done and rooms were tidied. They stopped at the Leclerc (a large grocery chain in France) and purchased provisions for the dinner we were hosting that evening for Jinny and Alexander.

I haven't really talked much about the foods we've eaten, but this dinner might give you an idea.

Appetizer:
Confit du porc, rice crackers & Nyons olives

Francois Chidaine Montlouis 2004 Les Tuffeaux

Dinner:
Lamb chops from M.Malavard boucherie
Tabouli
White Asparagus - chilled
Haricot Verte (small French green beans)
Green salad with special vinegrette

Domaine de la Pigeade Rhone Classique 2004


Cheese:
Chevre (goat) - two types Frais & Cremeaux
Cantal (a tomme style one aged 6mos the other 8 -10 mos)

Domaine Tour des chenes Lirac 2006 Les Chene

Dessert:
Pear and Citron Tarts
Domaine de la Pigeade Muscat de Beaumes de Venise 2009

Lots of food and lots of wine...ah...no, we are not starving. (Don't worry Lynne we are walking - a lot!)

Running the Rhone

Without question the Rhone Valley produces my favorite wines. Wow, that says quite a bit since I love so many different wines and regions, but it is true. And of the Rhone, I love those southern Grenache driven wines. A local wine bar held a Rhone tasting and, of course, I signed up quickly. The wines tasted that night will be discussed a bit further on, but I thought a little information on the Rhone might be useful prior to diving into my notes.

First, a discussion of the Rhone Valley is useful. The Rhone is broken into two viticultural regions - Northern and Southern. The Northern Rhone includes a number of stunning appellations - Côte Rôtie, Hermitage, Cornas, St. Joseph (one of my personal favs), Condrieu (think Viognier), Crozes-Hermitage, as well as a number of others.

What distinguishes the Northern Rhone from its Southern neighbor is the varietal used in red wine making - Syrah. While Syrah can be found in Southern Rhone wines, it plays a bit part rather than a leading one. Most reds from the Northern Rhone are almost entirely Syrah. However, having said that, Côte Rôtie is allowed to use up to about 20% Viognier (a white grape). Other grape varietals used in the North are also white - Marsanne and Rousanne.

The Southern Rhone appellations include - Chateauneuf-du-Pape (CDP), Gigondas, Vacqueyras, Tavel (an AC for rosé only and they are so good), Lirac (across the Rhone from CDP), Côte du Rhone Villages (a whole slew of villages are entitled to this AC - one of my favorites is Rasteau), and, of course, Côte du Rhone (the basic AC).

Southern Rhone grape varietals include:
Red: Grenache, Cinsault, Mourvedre, Syrah, Carignan, Gamay
White: Clairette, Picpoul, Bourboulenc, Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Marsanne, Muscat, Viognier

Grenache is not indigenous to France. It is believed by most experts to have its genesis in Spain where it is know as Garnacha. It can produce styles from dark and moody monsters with strong tannins to soft, lithe and spicy youngsters. Winemakers love using Grenache to produce fruity rosés as well. Some of my favority rosés are Grenache based (big surprise).

The Tasting

While most of the tasting dealt with the Rhone, the first two wines were from the Languedoc. Both were nice quaffers, but that's it:

2006 Marquis de Pennautier Blanc, Vin de Pays d'Oc: grapes - Buerre Blanc, Claret Blanc, Grenache Blanc, Marsanne, and Rousanne; apricot/peach notes, long finish, light acidity.

2006 Marquis de Pennautier Cabardes: grapes - 80% Cabernet and 20% Grenache; from the western part of the Languedoc, grapes are grown 300 meters above sea level; leafy nose, tobacco; good with duck confit, cassoulet, in general rustic foods. Good BBQ wine.

The Rhone wines included six Southern Rhone wines a one Northern Rhone.

2005 Domaine de Beaurenard Côte du Rhone Villages - Rasteau: grapes - 80% Grenache and 20% Syrah; vineyard was terraced by horses - blue clay soil; cherry and red licorice (grenadine), pepper and lavender, strong tannins; good with beets.

2004 Le Clos de Caveau Vacqueyras, Carmin Brillant: grapes - Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault; hot region with cool winds over clay soil; red fruit over ancient river rock with a licorice back; can hold up to 10 years; organic certification in 2009.

2005 Domaine du Pequier Gigondas: grapes - 75% Grenache, 20% Syrah and 5% Mouvedre; very Gigondas style - spicy, strong, tannic; grapes have been growing in this AC for over 2000 years.

2005 Domaine de Galet des Pape Chateauneuf du Pape: grapes - 80% Grenache; young vine cuvèe - vines only 50 yrs old; nose - good stink - result of no de-stemming (pits and stems included in fermentation); palate - pepper, iodine, iron, green veggies; according to a couple of people "no better wine with steak"; the wine shows better and better with time in the glass - will hold 10 - 12 years.

2005 Domaine de Beaurenard Chateauneuf du Pape: This family has been making wine since 1695; silky, soft nose - very gentile - a Cary Grant style wine; no new barrels; perfect with small birds - quail, etc.

2004 Domaine de Villeneuve Chateauneuf du Pape, Les Vieilles Vignes: grapes from the northern section of the AC - 90-95 yr old vines on 3 - 8 hectares; a very Burgundian nose which happens to many of these wines as they are just south of the Burgundian wine region; tobacco and plum jam. This was the hit of the night for me...stunning wine.

The last wine of the night was from the Northern Rhone and by definition (of Northern Rhone wines) was Syrah based.

2005 Jean Michel Gerin Côte Rôtie, Champin Le Seigneur: This is the oldest growing region - over 2400 years; two areas in Côte Brun provide vineyards soils and drive the complexity of this wine - mica shist and granite; grapes - Syrah 90%, Viognier 10%; nose - creamy berries, star gazer lilies - basically a Syrah palate with a light floral quality.

It was a terrific tasting...go find and try. As always...te souhaitant le meilleur de la vigne (wishing you the best of the vine).

New Wine List and Oregon Pinot Noir

Decided to start a list of wines consumed weekly. You will be able to see the list on the left side of the blog. These are not wines I've tasted, but rather bottles consumed (no not by myself - geez, I'm not that bad). Tastings will be discussed in normal posts. I've not included any tasting note with them, just provided the list. If I didn't like something about a wine I tried, it's not included. Keep in mind I include quaffers (just to drink) wines as well as those I spent time getting to know while I drank them. There will be inexpensive and not so inexpensive wines listed. But, you should find something enjoyable to taste from the list.

Oregon Pinot Noir

One of my adopted nephews asked after reading this blog what Oregon Pinot under $20 I'd suggest. Here's my dilemma in answering his question - he wanted a burgundian-style pinot. Oregon, sadly, has gone the way of most of the new world wines...too much. Too much fruit, too big, too, too much.

The joy of the Oregon Pinots of the '70's and '80's has devolved to reflect pinots from other new world areas. Why? Was it the success of the movie Sideways? Was it the influx of California moving to Oregon? Was it the increasing demand of the untrained palette of the American middle class? I really don't know. What I do know is that Oregon wines have changed.

I've been here many years and have had the opportunity to drink some stellar Pinots. I was young then and didn't really understand what it was I was enjoying, but enjoy them I did. And when the wine cellar began it's existence, it was with the intent to store only Oregon wines. But then they started to change, subtlely, slowly. I also began to find wines that suited my palate better - they came from France, Italy, Spain...well to be succinct - old world wines.

I like my Pinots to have that wonderful earthy, black fruit where the oak doesn't overwhelm and it continues to develop in the glass. I do like the Burgundian-style Pinots. Less and less wines are made in that style here. They talk as if they are moving in that direction and, to be fair, perhaps some of the younger winemakers are following in the traditonal style. But way too many are very dark, tannic fruit bombs that overwhelm the palate. They don't tickle and wait for you to ask for more...they don't make you work to find what they are about - they just happen.

In addition, Oregon Pinot has been following the lead of Napa by posting bottle costs at extraordinary amounts. Insane. So not only do they not reflect what Oregon is capable of producing, but they cost an incredible amount! What is up with that? Domaine Serene are you listening??

That said, I did suggest a few wines for him to consider - remember these are between $18 and $25. There are more expensive Pinots that I do like - Domaine Drouhin, Ken Wright Canary Hills, Cameron - but these are good values for the money. Have fun finding and trying one of them:

• McKinley Willamette Valley
• Cameron Dundee Hills
• J. Christopher Willamette Valley
• Grochau Cellars Willamette Valley

The Beginning

Oh how many times have I thought about starting a blog only to think that there is never enough time to manage it properly? Well, the answer to that question is WAY too many times. However, here we are...a beginning. Now the question falls to what subject to begin the discussion and the answer seems to be...everything.

Without question, wine, food, travel, books, life, questions, and such will become the fodder for this blog, but how often and to what degree is still in flux. Initially, it will be the wines that draw my attention, but be prepared for a book review, a trip (both past and present), or ??.

Relating to wine, I know there are many more experienced wine geeks out there and I am not planning to compete with their expertise. This blog will let you know what I like and don't like as I taste through the world. And it certainly doesn't mean in any way that my palette matches yours, but it should provide you with some options to "investigate". In addition, because there are so many other blogs, websites, etc., relating to wine, I am not going to go over every attribute - nose, palette, color, etc. You can always find more info on the wines I mention on the web. I basically want to share what I've tasted, educate where I can, and just enjoy a moment of wine, travel, food, life...with you.

If you are interested in keeping up with my daily notes, check out my tweets on Twitter (http://twitter.com/tacdeb). I try to stay on those multiple times a day. Note that they cover just my daily activities - sometimes in detail, sometimes not, but it's fun to update as the day progresses.

The next post will hit on some wines I've tasted recently. I think I'll address some local (Portland, Oregon) wine spots to visit that will provide options to enhance your palette and understanding of wine. Although, that said, there are a couple that I really like to keep to myself :). In addition, if you read my posts, please note any places you believe have exceptional tastings or good selection of wines. That way we share globally and when traveling have locals to investigate.

I hope you find pleasure in the postings as they arrive...as I will have pleasure in putting them in the ether...te souhaitant le meilleur de la vigne (wishing you the best of the vine).